I can close it, but it's not comfortable, so I will have to add small gussets at the sides. Very irritating. But at least I know that I am the kind of person who will actually do it, and soon (probably this afternoon), not just put the skirt away.
The semester starts in a week and I need to have some more professional looking clothes to wear.
In other news I've re-made my net and lace regency cap cap, made a triangular fichu from spotted net with a lace edge, started the embroidery on Valeria's new 16th century smock and also sewn the skirt of a white muslin 1790s round gown.
Add to this that I have had family over to celebrate the twins' birthday, been to a football game, and to a manifestation for Afghan refugees - I think we can without doubt say that my weekend has been productive.
Now I just have to be productive at work too. Today the plan is to finish my presentation for the Dressing the Early Modern Network conference in Berlin on the 15th of September, and to unpack books at my new work place. Tomorrow I will have to start on a new class on written sources to dress history that I'm giving on the 5th of September.
( Collapse )Then I lined my straw bonnet.
Takign selfies while trying to show off the bonnet is NOT easy.
I will make a proper page for it over on my costuming blog, but not now, sicne I am - after all - supposed to be working :) Tonight maybe, though I'm going to spend most of the eveningover at Anna's plae, encouraging her to work on her transitional stays, and making a chemisette.
So I pushed it away, and enjoyed our walk, and the sun, and when I came home I sat down to sew, and and listening to The Cleric Quintet on audio book. This is was the last day of my holiday, so I thought that I'd do something that I really enjoy.
First I started re-making my regency stays again. I showed the first re-make in my previous post, when I had taken them in c. 8 cm. However, while they worked as they were I knew that my bust would look more correct if I shortened the bust gores. So that's what I did.
Yesterday I was at my friend Anna's place contributing with advice and moral support (and artificial whale bone) when she started patterning her first stays, late 18th century transitional stays with cups. While talking (i'm good at multi-tasking ; ) I took in my regency petticoat.
Current version of stays and petticoat:
When they were first made:
Then I started on the bodice. I made the sleeves yesterday, though I think I may have to re-do them, they are maybe too wide. We'll see how it looks when they are sewn in to the bodice.
First I had to make a new pattern, but with the help of my previous, too large pattern, or at least the front piece, since I couldn't find the back piece, it wasn't that difficult.
Apart from the usual sources such as Patterns of Fashion and Kvinnligt mode under två sekel by Pernilla Rasmussen and Britta Hammar, I also looked at a couple of patterns from the internet, generously shared by the 19th US Regiment of InfantryCapt. Angus Langham's Company1812-1815.
Here you find their images and patterns of extant gows and outerwear.
And I sort of make it up as I go along. It is all hand sewn, as the rest of my regency clothing except for the stays, which were a test version whee only the lacing holes in the back are hand sewn. And making things by hand you can do it piece by piece and figure out, for example, exactly where to attach the skirt later. So I am basically making it up as I go along. There is one narrow channel more to make, the bodice will be gathered in front, before I have to figure out the skirt. And I can do that tomorrow, when I'm less tired.
Of course, being me, I will now remove the bust gussets on the regency stays and shorten them. They work as they are, but they will (probably, I will of course try it before cutting) will look better with shorter gussets so that the boobs end up higher.
Yesterday I re-made the petticoat and also sewed the sleeves for the teal gown. Unfortunately I think they turned out too wide, but I will see when I have made the bodice.
Now to decide exaclty what typ of bodice that I want, and make a pattern for that. First I'm taking in my petticoat however. I'm bringing the petticoat, and the fabric for the bodice over to Anna's place tonight. The main purpose of the visit is to help her make her first stays, ca 1790-1800, but I may get the time to do some sewing myself too.
Later this night I may go down town to a manifestation held by child refugees from Afghanistan who are going to be sent back by Sweden (one of a very few countries who dperot peopel to Afghanistan right now). In Stockholm such a manifestation was attacked by nazis a few days ago, so there is a need for grown-ups, and native Swedes, to protect these boys, espcially during the dark hours.
Valeria and I spent 2,5 hours there last night, between 10.45 pm and 01.15 am, playing cards and chatting. Se's going down there now and I will probably get down later.
In related news I am gong through all my garb. Especially the costumes which I had packed away because they were too small.They are now all too big, and I wil sell some, but a few of them I will take the trouble to take in, because I love them so much.
I've written a short blog post about Italian 15th century coifs here.
The photos are taken by the hospital next to where we live. 19th century architecture can apparently work well as background for Italian renaissance to
And after the photo shoot we raided at the gym there and I finally got an Articuno. Probably the only time someone played Pokémon Go in renaissance clothes around here.
In other news: The holiday was very nice, I bought 15 metres of cotton fabric: 5 metres for curtains in the kitchen (we have three windows, one rather large), 4 metres for a white late 18th century round gown, because obviously I need one of those. I have som printed chintz to use for an open robe over it, cotton broadcloth for a wrap skirt, since I only have one neutral knee length summer skirt that fits me. Patchwork hippie skirts, or ric-rac in abundance is fine, but sometimes you need something more neutral. I also got white, thin cotton broadcloth if I need to make another regency petticoat. Or something. And 2 metres of cotton wit a Halloween print that I hemmed on machine to make it a table cloth for our traditional Halloween dinner.
The first thing I did when we got home on Friday evening was to wash all the fabric and on Saturday I made that skirt.
The blouse is another holiday find: The Salvation Army's 2nd hand shops have racks with blouses for 39 SEK (c. 4,7 dollars) and I bought this one, which is from H&M, and one that I don't think has ever been used, made from white linen.
BTW, here are my holiday photos.
While on Holiday we went to a large, traditional market, where I got lots of cotton hankies, good quality bed sheets, some red and white striped piping, a heart shaped baking tin and two straw hats which will be partly unraveled and made into bonnets.
Some of the fabric was bought at Tygladan, which is close to my home village, and some was bought at Kristinedals fabriker, which not only had lots of nice, cheap fabric, but also used to be a mill making both wool and cotton/linen yarn for weaving.
I did some sewing while on holiday too: I hand sewed most of a new shift for Valeria, it's going to have embroidery at all the seams, and along the sleeves, so I can't add the sleeves until I've made that embroidery. I'm getting supplies for that today. And when I had done as much as I could on the shift I started embroidering on my regency gown again, and I think it will a) be finished for the picninc on the 2nd of September and b) be really pretty.
I'm bringing cut out pieces for an Italian renaissance smock for Valeria, and my blue regency gown to embroider on.
Back on Saturday or Sunday - see you then!